I recently had the incredible opportunity to study abroad in Florence, Italy, to fulfill an art history credit. And let me tell you, there's no better classroom than the streets of Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance! My course was like an open-air city tour—every weekday morning, I explored the city's rich history and breathtaking architecture on a three-hour walk. By the end of my trip, I even found myself teaching the locals something new every day!
In this series, I'll be diving into all the wonderful and fascinating things I learned about this magical city. From its ancient origins to its vibrant culture today, Florence has layers upon layers of history waiting to be uncovered.
A City Built on History
Did you know that today's Florence is actually built above an ancient Roman city named Florentia? Founded in 59 B.C. as a military camp along the Arno River, Florentia blossomed—quite literally, since its name is derived from the word "floral," reflecting its establishment during the spring season (similar to Florida in the USA).
As time passed, Florentia became a bustling hub for business and trade. Only Roman citizens were allowed to live within the city walls, while merchants and visitors stayed outside. Though the walls no longer exist, you can see where they used to stand, which is highlighted in the picture below. (This map can be found in Florence's Piazza della Repubblica.)
Mapping Out Ancient Florentia
The forum, which lay beneath Piazza della Repubblica, was the city's heart. Initially a marketplace, it became a center for political and religious gatherings. The two major roads- the Cardo Maximus and Decumanus Maximus- intersected at a right angle at the center of the forum, marked by the Column of Abundance. These roads divided the city into blocks, or "insulae," bordered by sturdy city walls to protect against invasions.
The Evolution of Beliefs
Florentia's original religion was Paganism, and early Christians faced persecution. It's fascinating to see how the tides turned over the centuries, with Christianity eventually becoming the dominant religion that, in turn, persecuted Pagans. The main temple, which once stood beneath the baptistery, was adorned with a sacred altar.
Noteworthy Landmarks
One of the most intriguing aspects of ancient Florentia was its attention to public life. The theater, which could hold about 15,000 spectators, was inspired by Greek design and located underneath Piazza della Signoria. It hosted music, poetry, and dance performances that communicated religious beliefs. Tours of the theater excavation can be taken through Palazzo Vecchio; more info is listed below!
Unlike the theater, which was exclusive to the wealthy, the amphitheater welcomed all social classes to its gladiator games held outside the city walls—just in case any wild animals escaped!
And then there were the bathhouses, a cornerstone of Roman hygiene. Public and private baths were a must for cleanliness and health, with everyone except slaves having access. It’s a bit ironic, considering how vital hygiene was for preventing plagues. You can check out remnants of the old bathhouses in Brunelleschi Hotel's Pagliazza Tower; more info is below!
On the street, along the eastern wall, you can see a golden outline where the watchtower used to be.
Although the gold outlines in the photo below might look like an ancient remnant, they actually mark spaces allocated for street art rather than historical sites.
Exploring Florentia Today
If you’re ever in Florence and want to step back in time, several parts of ancient Florentia’s ruins can still be explored today.
Santa Reparata Crypt
The Santa Reparata Crypt can be visited with various tickets and tours. I highly recommend the 3-day Brunelleschi Pass if you’re a history buff—it gets you underground and into the Dome, Bell Tower, Baptistery, and Museum for just $30. Even if you're on a budget, plenty of other options exist to fit your itinerary and interests.
Palazzo Vecchio
Palazzo Vecchio offers a unique tour called “The Secret Passages” for $5, which includes access to the building's underground areas. The tour explores hidden rooms, secret staircases, and passages. They also have tours of the Excavations of the Roman Theater for $8. They're only offered in Italian, but I still think it would be cool to check out.
Hotel Brunelleschi
Hotel Brunelleschi, built around the medieval Pagliazza Tower (or Torre della Pagliazza in Italian), offers access to the underground remains of ancient Florence. This tower's basement features the Museo della Pagliazza, showcasing ancient Roman bathhouse artifacts and ruins, including the foundations of ancient Roman bathhouses. Hotel guests can explore these historical sites as part of their stay, but non-guests may still be able to arrange a visit by contacting the hotel in advance.
Palazzo Medici Riccardi
While the main attraction of this Renaissance Palace is the building’s beautiful architecture and famous frescoes, Palazzo Medici Riccardi's Archaeological Itinerary allows visitors underground to explore the original bed of the Mugnone stream, ancient burial sites, and remnants of walls, floors, wells, and water tanks that showcase the evolution of these spaces, from stables to cellars. The exhibit includes artifacts from various periods, some dating back to ancient Rome, along with parts of 19th-century ovens and heating pipes, all arranged to highlight the site’s rich historical layers.
Stay tuned for more stories and secrets from Florence’s past!
