Florence’s Jewish history begins across the Arno River, on the city’s southern side. In 1427, the Jewish community lent money to the Pope in exchange for protection. About ten years later, in 1437, Florence approved its first Jewish lending bank with the blessing of Cosimo de’ Medici- a major turning point. The Medici family formed a close alliance with the Jewish community and offered protection from Roman Catholic persecution for many years.
Florence was one of the last cities to establish a Jewish ghetto. It was enclosed by inner and outer gates that remained in place for nearly 250 years, until religious tolerance slowly expanded. One of the original gates still stands near Piazza della Repubblica. Inside the ghetto, daily life continued with wells, synagogues, and schools for Jewish students.
At first, Jewish residents were not allowed to own property and had to rent from Christian landlords. Over time, these restrictions eased, and they were eventually permitted to buy their own buildings.
During World War II, Florence itself avoided aerial bombing, but Jewish communities outside the city walls were not as fortunate. The original synagogue was destroyed, though it was later rebuilt. Pieces of the rubble still remain today, quietly marking the destruction. Across the street, a medieval house tower survived completely untouched — a chilling reminder of how precise the bombings were.
Jewish Synagogue
The Jewish Synagogue of Florence was built in the 1880s. Although the community numbered fewer than 1,000 people, the synagogue was intentionally grand, designed to symbolize freedom and emancipation. Its copper dome has oxidized over time, giving it a striking green color. It survived the Holocaust thanks to a courageous man who lived across the street that secretly removed most of the explosives planted by the Nazis — leaving just one behind. The small explosion caused minor damage, just enough to avoid suspicion, while saving the building.
I was lucky to have my buddy Rocco accompany me on this adventure. Go buy his book!
Stolpersteine - Tumbling Blocks throughout the City
Throughout Florence, brass-plated plaques are set into the streets. Located in front of the last freely chosen residence of the people persecuted or murdered by the Nazis. Each one lists information about the victims, including their name, birthdate, date of deportation, and often their place and date of death. “Stolpersteine” literally means “stumbling stones”, and they are intended to make passersby pause and remember those whose lives were violently taken.
Santa Croce
Our final stop is the façade of Santa Croce. Though it's a Roman Catholic church (and the principal Franciscan church of Florence), it was redesigned by a Jewish architect, Niccolò Matas, finished in 1865. Matas was allowed to include the Star of David in the design. While the church still features traditional Christian symbolism and the three colored marbles of ancient Rome, the blue Star of David stands proudly above. Despite his contribution, Matas was not permitted to be buried inside the church because of his faith. Instead, his grave rests just outside — close, but forever separated.
